We hope that 2009 is treating everyone very well so far. Things in El Salvador are rockin’. It’s tough to be away from family and friends, especially during the holidays. We miss everyone very much! Luckily, we have been distracted by an endless slew of parades, masses, fireworks and other such festivities.
Tuesday, January 6, 2009
We're Talking Smurfs, Part 1
Happy New Year!
We hope that 2009 is treating everyone very well so far. Things in El Salvador are rockin’. It’s tough to be away from family and friends, especially during the holidays. We miss everyone very much! Luckily, we have been distracted by an endless slew of parades, masses, fireworks and other such festivities.
Kelly and Bruce with Bruce's awesome boss
Some mismatched shoes during a soccer tournament we helped run
Each night between Nov 24 and Dec 24 the statues of Mary and Joseph were taken to a different house in search of a place to give birth. This tradition is accompanied by lots of singing and candy and is called La Posada.
Pitos, or bird shaped whistles made from local clay
One of the pet turtles at our house, maybe with some tortilla on his face
We took a day trip with local friends to a nearby beautiful town called Alegria. Outside of the town there is a bright green lake in a crater. This is the road to the lake. Red, white, and blue are colors from the political party ARENA. Telephone poles, curbs, buildings etc get painted like this before elections.
Frosted Flakes
Bananas growing on the tree
Please Don't Bother the Birds
Tasty chocolates sent from the Lehigh Valley from Bruce's Grandparents. These were a huge hit with everyone during our lakeside picnic.
We hope that 2009 is treating everyone very well so far. Things in El Salvador are rockin’. It’s tough to be away from family and friends, especially during the holidays. We miss everyone very much! Luckily, we have been distracted by an endless slew of parades, masses, fireworks and other such festivities.
We're Talking Smurfs, Part 2
Christmas and New Year`s in The Savior
Here in El Salvador, Christmas Eve (Noche Buena) is celebrated more than Christmas Day. We attended a parade of Pastorelas (kids dressed as shepherds, angels, Mary, Joseph, kings, etc.); they walked through the town singing some pretty catchy Christmas tunes. Our favorite of the Christmas songs here is called “Burrito de Belén.” In the song, a kid is singing to his donkey telling it to hurry up “¡apurate!” so they can get to Bethlehem to see Jesus. It’s complete with a “tuqui tuqui tuqui tuqui, tuqui tuqui tuqui ta” which is, of course, the sound a donkey makes as it runs. Anyway, there are other great Christmas songs here too, and after the parade there were two concerts of these songs. A mass followed with more of these songs. It’s not uncommon here to applaud for baby Jesus. A few times during mass, the priest would say, “let’s have a big round of applause for baby Jesus!” and the whole congregation would clap like crazy. The same thing happened during the parade last month for the Virgin of Guadalupe. . . “Let’s have a round of applause for the Virgin!”
Most people here set up a manger scene or “nacimiento” in their houses. Some of them are basic, but many of them are quite elaborate and not limited to the main characters of the typical manger scene. We’re talking Smurfs. We’re talking Barbie, Wizard of Oz, El Cipitillo (see photo), etc. It’s sort of an opportunity to showcase whatever you have. And it’s not irreverent if everything you showcase is worshiping Jesus. We saw one very nice manger scene that was quite elaborate. One level down from the manger, on another table, was a winter village complete with several snow-covered houses with little lights inside, and lots of little figurines of people sledding, skating, etc. The owner told us that his plan is to build another table, lower than the second one, to have a scene from the magical world, with figurines from Disney’s Snow White, The Hunchback of Notre Dame, and Pinocchio.
New Year's Eve is a family affair here. A 9pm mass follows and precedes family dinners, and cohetes (fireworks) ring in the new year throughout the night. The cohetes are not colorful or controlled as they are back in the States. The cohetes here are more like small bombs, it´s all about the noise. Burns are apparently not uncommon, though we haven´t heard of any accidents in our community. We ate dinner with a nearby family on New Year´s Eve. The house used to be an Inn of sorts and the owner still has a guestbook from the year 1928. It was really interesting to see what kinds of people were staying in our town so long ago. Many people from Turkey came for commercial reasons. There were travelers, photographers, journalists, and missionaries from countries such as Ireland, France, Brazil, Palestine, Germany, Switzerland, and neighboring Central American countries. The couple´s 17 year old son was eager to tell us all about the guestbook and several photo albums as well. After we left, we were observing how in the States, a 17 year old would probably prefer to be out with his friends on New Year`s Eve, rather than with his parents and grandmother and some foreigners talking about the history of his home. Maybe this has more to do with the smallness of the town rather than El Salvador in general.
Work
We have completed our community diagnostic and have drafted a work plan for our time here. We are going to have two ecological clubs in the schools, a “periodismo” club that will include art, poetry, interviews, articles about community events, and the like (hopefully with a publication every three months), a chess club (with giant pieces, not unlike those in Harry Potter), an English club for kids and another for teachers, festivals, hikes, sex education, recycling/ composting programs, and so on. The vacation (longest of the year, essentially their summer vacation) is drawing to a close for the students. For us Peace Corps folk, the first four months were more than anything about adjustment, language and cultural training, practice, and integration into our community (“building relationships”). Even though we were sworn in as Volunteers in mid-November, we will be completely finished with training soon. And by the end of this month, we will be doing a good deal of “actual work.” For real.
Thursday, December 18, 2008
La Caminata (the hike)
Comandante Sombra. We joined a large group (40 people?) on an expedition to walk up the cerro (steep hill, not quite mountain), down into the crater, up the other side, and finally back down. A great day.
bambú
The young boy in the middle was our guide into the crater. His family gathers the coffee beans for the harvest. He wore only flip-flops on his feet and led us down ridiculously steep walking trails. He was basically awesome.
in the canyon/ hikers in distance
volcano and flower
These kids were rock-stars. They ran down the hill at the end of the hike, kicking up dust that got in our eyes.
100-pound sacks of coffee beans
La Virgen (the virgin)
reindeer made of straw/ presents sent from home (thank you Moms!)
This is a farol (or farolito). It is made of wood and colored plastic wrap. There is a candle inside. We marched in a procession from one Catholic church to the other, following a statue of la Virgen de Concepción.
Bruce and friends after the procession.
Kelly, machete, coconut
This is the float for the procession of la Virgen de Guadalupe. Children were all dressed up in traditional clothes. Young boys had fake moustaches. A throng of singing townspeople followed the float for two hours. Two men lead the float with tall sticks to raise the telephone lines to allow the float to pass. Then the insanity began. Fireworks upon fireworks. A man dressed up as a bull, running through the crowd, setting fireworks off in all directions. This is a tradition. Bruce´s hand was slightly burned. We didn´t return to the park for the 3 am mariachi concert on account of a hike the next day. But the fireworks woke us up anyway.
our adorable neighbor in traditional dress
El Volcán (the volcano)
Kelly está lavando la ropa.
cafe
This is the San Miguel (a.k.a. Chaparrastique) volcano. Our pueblo´s police officers are incredibly friendly and took us on three guided tours of the region in their police trucks. We now know almost all of the cantones (very rural areas) in our municipio. We also saw beautiful sites: the volcano, the ¨laguna seca¨(dry lagoon, really a huge crater), hot springs, boiling ponds of mud (Yellowstone-esque), etc. We saw extreme levels of poverty (cantones without water) and luxury (the hacienda of one of the so-called 14 Families who--before the civil war--owned basically everything).
Kelly y la laguna seca
We could see, in the distance, the volcano of San Vicente (our training site). Also at this summit, we could see trenches leftover from the war.
Kelly and tree
coffee country
another amazing tree
tarantulas strike back!
Bruce, after the kill
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
La Playa (the beach)
coin pouch...¡que chivo!
monster
malaria pills
Hombre Araña/ It´s difficult to find professional-looking notebooks in El Salvador.
chucho (dog, more common here than term ¨perro¨)
at the beach! with our counterparts!
chickens finishing our coconut
sad chicken/ no more coconut
There is a dog in the middle of these cows, asserting his authority.
just like on the Jersey shore
---
Every so often it feels as though we are characters in a high school Spanish textbook: Bruce and Kelly are Peace Corps Volunteers serving in El Salvador, Central America. They are working with a development agency that has received a grant from an NGO in the U.S. Help Bruce and Kelly translate the following letter...
There are also times when you take a step back and realize that you are dicing radishes for a Salvadoran first communion.
We have now been in our site for one month (El Salvador for three). We have been keeping busy. Police-guided tours of the region. Excellent, beautiful hikes with new friends. Meetings at the mayor´s office about a new recycling-composting program. Soccer. The Carnaval in San Miguel--said to be the largest outside of Brazil. Candle-lit religious processions. Meetings with NGOs, schools, the local health center, Cruz Roja (Red Cross)...
On Monday we held a general assembly with an audience of our Peace Corps bosses and the leaders of the community. We formally introduced Peace Corps, our individual programs, and ourselves. We also presented a long list of project ideas that included excursions to forests and ancient ruins (of the Lencas), reforestation, environmental festivals, gender equality, sexual education, sporting events, English classes for teachers, community newsletters, nights of poetry/art/music/movies... Most or all of these projects will be youth-centered. We will work on these projects in conjunction with community organizations.
We miss everyone back home! Hope you all are preparing for a festive holiday season. ¡Feliz Navidad y Prospero 2009!
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